Muharram in India: Mourning for Imam Husain's martyrdom, Ashura traditions in Madhya Pradesh, Chhattisgarh

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India is a vast country and Muharram is observed across the length and breadth of the nation.

Not just Muslims, Hindus too take part in Muharram. In fact, Muharram reflects local culture in each state and region of the country.

From district to district, the shapes and forms of Tazias, the rituals differ. However, the passion remains same among Muslims and Hindus.

Muharram in small cities, towns

Generally, photographs from major cities like Delhi, Lucknow, Kolkata, Hyderabad are seen in newspapers and media. In major cities in Central India like Jabalpur, Bhopal, Raipur, Indore, Bilaspur and Gwalior, Muharram is observed on a big scale.

Khargone, MP

In Bhopal alone, nearly 700 Tazias are taken out on Yaum-e-Ashura--the 10th of Islamic month of Muharram.

But this post deals with Muharram observances in smaller towns in Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh.

The reason is that from these places photographs don't generally reach the people, as media ignores small towns.

On the left is the photograph of Tazias in Panna, a small town in Madhya Pradesh.

The Tazias are quite high and the shape is also unique. The second photo shows a Tazia in Khargone, a tribal dominated region in South Eastern MP.

Imam Husain's horse, Zul-Jinah, is often seen on tazias. Here, its size is quite big.

Sarkari Tazia, Indore

Sarkari Tazia

The next photograph shows the 'Sarkari Tazia' in Indore. It is brought out from the era when Holkar was a princely state.

The person accompanying the Tazia is seen wearing the traditional Maratha dress and the headgear.

Sarkari Tazias are brought out in dozens of cities in MP and Chhattisgarh, It is an old tradition.

It dates backs to the era of princely states, when Muharram was observed under state patronage.

Though the Rajas and Nawabs are no more, these Tazias continue to be brought out with the same enthuiasm.

Mostly Sunnis, Hindus take out Taziyas

For many, who aren't aware, it needs to be clarified that Shias take out 'Alams' and perform the 'maatam' viz. beating their chests to express their grief over the martyrdom of Imam Husain.

Begamganj, MP

Sunnis and Hindus take out Tazias. In MP, 'sawaris' or persons who are possessed, are also a distinct feature of the Ashura.

Hindus, especially, women go to the 'sawari' and make their wishes. Also, they seek the 'sawari's blessings.

Irrespective of religion, the kids are made to bow their head and walk under the Tazia.

It is considered auspicious by the devotees.The mourners chant 'Ya Husain'. Urdu verses are played on loud speakers.

Those addressing the gatherings during the procession, rue that they weren't there during the battle, to fight along side the Imam.

Many people walk barefoot towards the local Karbala. Shias whiplash themselves and show their devotion.

Kunkuri, Chhattisgarh

FIREWORKS AND AKHADAS

Sherbet is also distributed on the way to the local Karbala [at the water body] in each town.

In the procession, there are also Akhadas where youth show their acrobatics.Also, traditional Indian martial arts are displayed. Those in procession recite elegiac verses.

On the right is the photograph of fireworks at Begamganj town in Raisen district in central MP.

On the eve of 10th of Islamic month of Muharram, there is a display of such fireworks at many places.

People also walk on fire or burning coal, to show their devotion. The fifth photograph shows a tazia being taken away on a cycle-rickshaw.

Chhindwara, MP

DEVOTION AMONG POOR SECTIONS

This is the photo from Kunkuri in remote Chhattisgarh. The children also accompany the tazia.

Interestingly, most of the people who build tazia, and work for days to complete it, belong to lower-middle class or poor section of the society.

They save hard earned money to build the tazia, because of their devotion and the sense of tradition.

A tazia is a replica of Imam Husain's 'rauza' or tomb.  Muharram is observed to commemorate Imam Husain, his family and companion's martyrdom.

TIGERS OF MUHARRAM

On the right is a boy dressed as tiger in Chhindwara in MP. This is also an aspect of Muharram observance in central India and Maharashtra. Many families praying for child, take a vow that if the kid is born, they would turn him into 'Husain's sher (tiger)'.

Rajnandgaon, Chhattisgarh

The practice continues till date. Similarly, there are many other associated traditions that vary from regions to region.

First, the treachery and later the brutality with which Husain, his family and companions including children, were killed, shocked the Islamic world.

Husain was the grandson of Prophet Muhammad. The battle of Karbala took place nearly fourteen centuries ago in Iraq.

Bhilai, Chhattisgarh

Husain stood for principles. He refused to swear allegiance to the tyrant Yazid who was turning Caliphate into a hereditary rule.

Centuries have passed but the tragedy continues to inspire people and gives them the courage to stand for truth.

On the left is the photograph of a procession of Tazias in Bhilai in Chhattisgarh. There is a long line of brightly lit Tazias, which move around in the town before immersion.

The big photograph shows Guru Nanak Jayanti procession passing on the same street, where a Tazia procession is also moving.

This photo is from Rajnandgaon in Chhattisgarh. Read posts on Muharram traditions published on this blog in the past.

CHECK THE POSTS HERE:

1. Muharram observed in India: Photos from Western, Southern and Eastern India.
SEE THE LINK

2. Most famous Urdu, Persian verses, poetry on the message behind Husain's sacrifice. SEE THE LINK

Tilak, Topi in Indian politics: People don't want Hindu politicians to wear skullcap or Muslim leaders to sport 'tilak' or perform Puja

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Media often takes up the issue of Narendra Modi not wearing a 'topi' [skullcap]. I don't think it is an issue at all.

Do you think those who oppose him would have a change of heart, if he wears the topi! Still, on TV & social media, this issue is raised time and again.

Amid conversation with Muslim friends, this topic often came up. Not a single Muslim I met, ever said that he expects or wants Modi to wear the topi.

Why should it be expected? In fact, the person who offered him topi shouldn't have done it. Citizens want the politician to be honest and work, rather than do such gestures. People on the street are more smart than journos believe them to be.

Another interesting aspect is that many people write that while Hindus are expected to wear topi, Muslims don't do anything like that? Arrey bhai, this is no secularism. Just for the sake of information, I should tell you that Muslims not just sport 'tilak' but many politicians have even done puja.

So? How many Hindu leaders perform Namaz? Is this a debate at all? Muslims remember how PV Narasimharao spoke in chaste Urdu on TV just after 'allowing' the demolition of Babri Masjid, and even promising that he would rebuild the masjid again at the same spot.

LK Advani is seen covered in green cloth at Ajmer shrine but don't we remember his Rath Yatra? They do it for reasons they know best. 

Topi is no Islamic symbol though it has become one in India. In Arab, even in mosques you don't need to cover your head, during prayers.

In India, media image of Muslims is that of a person who is wearing the skullcap. Till a few decades back, it used to be the Turkish cap.

But in India, we have a unique culture. Hindus and Muslims, despite their perceived differences, attend each others' programmes and even religious events.

Prominent persons are invited at such places, and to offer respect, the person is either offered 'headgear', made to wear 'saafa', or 'tilak' applied on forehead. This doesn't mean everything should be seen as Communal Vs Secular or Hindu Vs Muslim.

Section of media splashes the pictures to create CONTROVERSY and then seeks others' opinion to get TRP. Though this is a non-issue. When Mamata Bannerji covers her head, the photo is seen as 'interesting' and gets published. Lalu Yadav, Mulayam and even Atal Bihari Vajpayee were seen wearing topi at iftaar. 

Muslim politicians with 'tilak' are common to see at any event. In fact, Muslim leaders often go to temples and even pray.

Yes, they do it too, despite all allegations of Muslims being more rigid. Do Hindus expect them to do it? No. Only a fool will call it appeasement. And no one forces them to do it either.

While passing the area, the leader feels that he should go to the temple, he goes. Nobody prevails upon the neta to do that or even bow head before God or Goddess.

I know many Muslims who have no objection getting a 'tilak' on their forehead. But some may not because they don't have Hindu friends from childhood.

Similarly, many Hindus easily go to mosque or dargah while some don't, again, because these Hindus didn't have close Muslim friends early in the life. You can't judge people over these issues. All these gestures are more about your personal feelings.

A person does it also because of his society, his childhood friends and his/her engagement with people in his/her area.

A person or politician may not resort to such gestures but at the same time he could be many times more honest and just.

In fact, those who talk about such things, probably, have never lived in the real India, and have no idea about the strength of Hindu-Muslim bonding at the ground level.

As I start thinking, I can recall many more politicians doing such acts. It is their personal choice. They often do it to respect others sentiments. It is not right to say that they are fooling us. 

Would you call these acts as 'Hindu Tushtikaran' or 'Hindu Appeasement'. Of course, not. We are a diverse country of multiple faiths and overlapping cultural practices.

Don't we all remember, how Samajwadi Party MLA Chaudhary Bashir was attacked by a section of clerics for Puja at Hanuman temple in Agra. 

And MUSLIM LEAGUE's leader Cherkulam Abdullah went to mutt and sported vermilion [tilak] on his head, leading to a controversy.

There is no dearth of such incidents. We are a unique society. It can't be judged from British, American or any other point of view. We are a nation of 1.2 billion persons. There will be many trivial incidents every day and at the same time there will be many great events too.

Depends, what you track, what you see, what you are shown and what you want to believe.

MORAL of the Story

Those in media who feel that Muslim with tilak is doing 'Hindu tushtikaran' or Hindu wearing topi is 'Muslim appeasement' are not too much far from those who think India is just a land of snake charmers and yogis. Or you perhaps had most interaction with the 'Other' on just social media and internet. 

Get a life, yaar.

Check these links if you want to read more

1. Photograph of Tariq Anwar sporting the 'tilak' courtesy The Hindu

2. Shazia Ilmi's photographs at Bhaskar's website

3. Muslim MLA condemned for puja at Hanuman temple Times of India

4. Last photo courtesy Business Insider [Rajesh Kumar Singh]

5. Muslim League Minister Cherkulam Abdullah sported tilak Link
6. Atal Bihari Vajpayee's photo wearing topi. Courtesy S Arneja [Frontline]